Friday, December 11, 2015

New Orleans

My best friend and I took a long weekend to visit New Orleans, a city both of us had on our list but never had the chance to visit. The food and music met the incredibly high reputation, and pleasantly surprised by the shopping and charming beauty of the city.

We flew from opposite coasts on Friday, arriving at MSY late afternoon. The line for the $36 cab was horrendously long (better off for two people than the $24 shuttle, also with a line), and grabbed a black car for $60 to the Westin New Orleans, right on the water on Canal Street and adjacent to the old French Quarter.

DAY 1
French Market - meet the bartender Doug
Shrimp and crabmeat stuffed avocado
Garlic and herb grilled oysters
Maque croux w andouille sausage
Sweet potato fries
Beer - Andygator and Purple Haze mix

Cafe du Monde
Three beignets 
Hot chocolate and cafe at lait

Copper monkey - meet the bartender  Laurna
Bourbon w ginger beer and lemon

St Lawrence 
Hush puppies w pickled okra and jalapeƱos
Buffalo wing of NCIS Nola guy
Mac and cheese
Redemption - bourbon cocktail 

DAY 2
Atchaflaya
Duck hash w blackberries
Boudin (rice and pork sausage patties)
Eggs atchaflata w crab meat
Grits
Bloody Mary bar w green tomato juice
Milk punch - brandy, cream half and half, simple syrup, egg nog, nutmeg/cinnamon

Shopping on Magazine Street
Loft43 with owner Kevin
Buffalo Exchange

Basin Seafood and Spirits
Crab and Crawfish beignets 
Garlic herbed butter oysters
Parish Canebrake American wheat from LO

Julia St Art Walk happens on first Saturday's of the month. Check out their site online

Cochon
Grilled broccoli salad
Cucumber pickled w herbs
Louisiana cochon
Shrimp and eggplant dressing
Roasted pumpkin arugula salad
Cote du Rhone
Bourbon vanilla brown sugar satsuma cocktail 
Eggnog cocktail

On to music on Frenchmen Street!
Dba

Three Muses
Eff white drink
Mac and cheese 

DAY 3
Coops Place
Coops combo - gumbo, jambalaya, creole shrimp, fried chicken, beans

Take the $2 ferry across the Mississippi to Algiers Point - worth it for the view of New Orleans

Dry dock cafe - right off the ferry stop, time to get a beer and get the next ferry back
Abita Christmas Ale

St Lawrence
Baked sweet potato Fall spice daiquiri
Shrimp and grits
Brussel sprouts
Spinach dip 

Sunday, July 12, 2015

Vienna & Salzburg

July 2015

My mom and I visited Vienna and Salzburg following four days in Milan. Vienna is a sort of mecca for classical music lovers and it did not disappoint!

Here are some highlights:

  • Salzburg - Famous as Mozart and the "Sound of Music" Trapp family's hometown, Salzburg is an idyllic city with a lazy river running through it and surrounded by lush green mountains.
  • Performances - Vivaldi Four Seasons by string quartet in St. Stephen's Cathedral
  • House of Musik - best interactive museum I've experienced.

Milan

July 2015

I took a week long trip to Milan and Vienna with my mom to coincide with the World Expo 2015 in Milan.

Here are some highlights:
  • World Expo - In Milano from May 1 to Oct 31, 2015, think of Expo like a massive six-month trade show of countries, or Epcot on crack. See bottom of the post for more, including a short video!
  • Food - Milanese cuisine is more rice than pasta and richer than what I think of typical Italian food, but their love and care of food is still Italian and there are many opportunities for great meals.
  • Duomo - the central Milanese cathedral is magnificent inside and out and worth a visit.
  • Last Supper - one of Leonardo da Vinci’s most famous paintings is on a rectory wall in Santa Maria delle Grazie Church.
  • Shop - I happen to not be a fashion type, but Milano is certainly one of the fashion meccas of the world. Emmanuelle Galleria houses the original Prada shop and some might enjoy the fashion district. I on the other hand, enjoyed the “saldi” season at your lower/mid level boutiques and made a killing at Promod. Italians make lovely shoes as well.
Notes on Milan
  • Milanese speak some English in tourist areas, but it's worth getting some basic phrases down
  • We stayed in an AirBNB studio near the Lima stop off of the Metro 1/Red line and a 5 minute walk from Centrale Stazione where you can get a bus/train direct from Malpensa international airport. It was so lovely to have a fridge and mini-kitchen for breakfast and snacking, and to live in a more residential area. Highly recommend over hotels.
  • Summertime is ridiculously hot, and well into the evening. Avoid being outside mid afternoon if you can.

Eat and Drink

We had a lovely mix of casual and fine dining in Milan. Turns out the olive oil, tomatoes, pasta that I think of when I imagine Italian food is more prevalent in mid to southern Italy, and Milanese are closer to say Austrian or German food with more breads, rice and mix of meat and seafood.

  • Ristorante Cracco - we had a decadent, luxurious and creative two and a half hour lunch at Chef Carlo Cracco's two-star Michelin restaurant just blocks from the Duomo. We splurged on the tasting menu with a few classes of wine
  • Osteria del Treno

Milan Sites

We joined a guided walking tour through a company called Veditalia. It was 63€ per person for the "best of Milan + Last Supper" and English guide with eight other people for three hours. It was worth it because my mom wanted to see the Last Supper and reservations were full through five weeks out. But our guide Christian was a local Milanese, incredibly knowledgeable and we learned a lot about Milanese history and the sites.

We visited:

    • Duomo Cathedral and its Square - the central cathedral in Milan took five centuries to construct and is a continuing work in progress. It's 2
      Da Vinci’s Last Supper and Santa Maria delle Grazie Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site - given the sensitivity of the famous and ancient Leonardo da Vinci mural, there are strict 15 minute reservations. Totally worth it though, really powerful.
      Vittorio Emanuele II Gallery, the “living room” of Milan with the flagship Prada shop
      Sforza Castle - outside and its inner yards
      Mercanti Square, the medieval city heart
      La Scala Theatre (outside) and its Square
  • World Expo

    For those who don’t know, one of my life goals after working at the Expo 2010 in Shanghai is to see every Expo going forward - they happen every five years and cities bid on them like the Olympics (next one is Dubai 2020).

    The theme for Expo Milano is “Feeding the World”, focusing on what people and countries are doing to sustainably produce and provide food around the world. More broadly, Expo is about showcasing countries with each nation sponsoring a pavilion that represents their culture, technology and philosophy around food. So what better way to experience this Expo than food/drink crawling!

    Highlights at Expo:
    • Japan Pavilion - Japan did a phenomenal job weaving together Japanese food customs, industry and innovation in an interactive and digital experience. As a testament to that, it was the only pavilion with a constant line. Overall I would guess it takes about 20-30 min to get in plus an hour to get through the multi-stage show.
    • Allavita! - Cirque du Soleil has a special show for Expo. It is fanciful and dynamic and incredible like every other Cirque show I've seen, plus set in an open air theater with a longer interactive show around the theme of food. 38€ for the closest to stage of three sections (open seating in all).
    • Russia Pavilion
    • Italy Wine Pavilion
    • Eataly - I know there are other Eatalys in the city, but if you are in Expo and want to eat Italian food, Eataly is a great place to sample food from every corner of the country. Try the gnocchi and tiramisu at Locanda Mammi in the Abruzzo e Molise region, amazing!
  • Country Pavilions - besides the ones mentioned above, I find the larger countries to be somewhat underwhelming for the amount of money they are probably spending. I loved the "smaller" places like Bahrain that not only had the most beautiful architecture and told a wonderful narrative about gardens and their primary agricultural exports and Morocco showed their various regional environments and specialties. Qatar was impressive, and I actually love going to places like Senegal to try a baobab drink or Slovenia to learn about salt.
  • Coolest architecture (take pictures of the outside but not worth going in) - UK, Vietnam, USA (sorry it's true...)
  • Eat/drink - in addition to Eataly, Italy Wine and Salumeria Pavilions, Japan and Russia, the Czech had pilsners from an outside poolside bar, Belgians had fries, beer and great cafe, Morocco had nice outdoor garden restaurant, US has a Food Truck 2.0 area (I didn't go), Chile for daily 4pm wine tasting seminar.
  • Wednesday, April 1, 2015

    Hyderabad

    My company has offices in India - the tech-centric Hyderabad (also called Cyberabad) and in the coastal college town of Bhimavaram. I had the pleasure to visit our team, experience the local culture and taste amazing South Indian cuisine.

    Note: video password is my first name, lower case

    Hyderabad is a fascinating mix of the modern Cyberabad offices, developing city under massive construction, and deeply historical South Indian and Muslim influenced culture and architecture.

    Wednesday, June 4, 2014

    Upper Haight Food/Drink Crawl

    Haight Ashbury is in most San Francisco tourist books as the center of the '60s hippie movement, though today it's another commercial street with boutiques, albeit some more colorful than the norm. I rarely make it over, but there are a few visit worthy spots. Loosely based on a local foodie walking tour of the neighborhood, I put together a food/drink crawl for some friends on a Saturday afternoon.

    The total distance is just about a mile, though is a little aggressive on the consumption side. If you had something at each stop, it could be a chocolate bacon-beer-juice-piroshki-ice cream-soda-cocktail-alcoholic fountain soda kind of day ;)

    Here’s the itinerary…

    2:30 PM 
    Bacon Bacon - 205 A Frederick Street at Ashbury - Porky food truck turned little storefront. Known for porky fries, pork belly, and breakfast sandwiches. I think I’m getting a bacon grilled cheese and/or dark chocolate covered bacon. They close at 3PM, so first stop. 

    3:00 PM
    Magnolia Pub & Brewery - 1398 Haight at Masonic - beer. I actually don’t know what is good there, but I know beer lovers think it’s great. Gastropub menu.

    4:00 PM
    Second Act Marketplace and Events - 1727 Haight Street at Shrader - a neighborhood public space with several kinds of food and drink places (open til 6PM)
    • Raw - fancy fresh juice place. $6.50 for 16oz, and usually for cleanses, but might be a nice drink mid day
    • Anda Piroshki - Russian food. I’m between beef+cheese or mushroom+kale piroshki (~$4)
    • Eatwell Farm’s Icebox - organic soft serve and handmade butter cones
    The Fizzary - 1782 Haight at Shrader - really cool soda pop and candy store. All sodas $2 for all sorts of crazy stuff (open til 7PM)

    5:00 PM
    Alembic - 1725 Haight at Cole - phenomenal cocktails and delicious bar food. I love the pickled quail eggs. If we only went here, I’d be perfectly happy :)

    6:00 PM
    The Ice Cream Bar - 815 Cole St at Frederick - old school diner with food, ice cream, and alcoholic fountain sodas. I’m between the Dublin Honey (guinness, caramelized honey ice cream, chocolate and port) or the Port Egg Nog. Good beer list too.


    Monday, May 19, 2014

    SF Eats and Drinks

    I have multiple food and drink lists for SF, and some Aussie friends pointed out to me that I don't have a "go-to" SF list to share, so here goes...

    San Francisco is a foodie town. A little obnoxious at times, but we have amazing quality and diversity of food and love to critique, recommend and post every delicious, unique, food porn-worthy dish that we come across. There's Michelin-stars to hole-in-the-walls with phenomenal food, so will try to give some context for each.

    I write this list for visitors who have a limited number of SF meals and drinks to experience. Includes both corporate/work-appropriate restaurants as well as casual places.

    SF has more micro-neighborhoods than a 7x7 mile city should merit. Here's one view of SF neighborhood stereotypes (funny and pretty accurate). I will try to stick to the names in the map here.



    Pro-tip: Download the Yelp app (also a website). Reviews are user generated so take or leave those, but it's the best resource for restaurant information in the Bay Area.

    Check out SFEater's 38 Essential SF Restaurants, which gets updated every few months with the latest foodie recs.

    My Favorites
    This list crosses many genres but here's my top list...
    • Spruce (Presidio Heights) - food is phenomenal (Michelin one star), bartenders fantastic and one of the few white linen, men-in-jacket fancy restaurants in SF. I love sitting at the bar (burger off of bar menu). Definitely get the beignet for dessert.
    • State Bird Provisions (Western Addition/Fillmore) - it's the hot spot in town now. Reservations go 60 days in advance, but you can walk in day-of if you show up right when it opens (literally, people taskrabbit to wait in line). But it's worth it, hard to describe but California/Asian fusion dim sum. Get their eponymous signature dish and definitely get as many small dishes as you can eat off of their carts. Four people is optimal for this, hard for big group. Their new outpost next door, The Progress, is also wonderful if you can get a res.
    • Lolinda (Mission) - Argentinean steakhouse and Latin tapas in a trendy former club with great, rich food and fantastic cocktails. Rooftop bar El Techo is nice before or after.
    • Kokkari (FiDi) - standard on the SF lists, Kokkari has fantastic Mediterranean, huge brick oven with whole animal specials, extensive wine list. It's in my top two Mediterranean/Greek (other is Evvia in Palo Alto, very similar). Right in FiDi so it's filled with work dinners during the week.
    • Burma Love (Mission) - outpost of the better known Burma Superstar, but I love this casual Burmese restaurant and bar on Valencia and Duboce. Signature tea leaf salad and samosa soup are phenomenal, as are most of their extensive menu. No reservations, so prime hours might be tough for a group.
    • Beretta (Mission) - wonderful Italian on Valencia at 23rd with fantastic cocktails and wonderful food. Their menu is always changing but always a great experience. Love their small dishes like eggplant caponatina and walnut bread with buratta and truffle oil, and great pizzas. You can call an hour before to be put on the list, or otherwise be prepared to wait 
    • NOPA (Western Addition) - New American over on Divisadero, phenomenal food and cocktails, get reservations in advance
    Asian
    There is fantastic Asian food, particularly as you go away from the center of SF in Sunset and Richmond, because, well, that's where all of the Asians live (same with the South Bay... I actually think the Asian food in San Jose is better than SF). These tend to be more casual so they may be less work meal appropriate.
    • Basil Canteen (SoMa) - this is my favorite Thai place though it's a dark horse in the SF Thai polls. I love the space, an old warehouse with exposed brick, looks super Brooklyn trendy, but they have legit Thai food and I think it's one of the best here. There's not much else in this immediate neighborhood, but I highly recommend going down the block to Bar Agricole for amazing cocktails before or after a meal at Basil Canteen. 
    • Kin Khao (Union Square) - close #2 for amazing Thai.
    • Dosa (2 locations - Mission, Western Addition/Japantown) - fantastic South Indian place, and quite nice. This could be ok for corporate.
    • Lers Roi Thai (3 locations, but the Tenderloin one has best food. Mission is great as it's in the middle of a lot of bars, and Hayes Valley meh) - great authentic Thai but in a nice but casual environment.
    • Burma Superstar (Richmond) - really popular Burmese place. Also try B Star, which is nearby with not nearly the wait, and Burma Love on Duboce/Valencia.
    • PPQ Dungeness Island (Richmond) - CRABS! They give you bibs but wear clothes that you can get dirty. Also fantastic non-crab Vietnamese dishes.
    • Cafe Bunn Mi (Inner Richmond) - casual Vietnamese and delicious banh mi sandwiches, recommend the crispy duck!
    Japanese
    This is my list of real Japanese places (aka run by Japanese people). There are very good Japanese places in SF, but if you come from somewhere with good Japanese food and you only had a few meals here, I'd go with other cuisine. If you don't
    • Sakana (Tenderloin) and Kiji (Noe Valley) have good sushi
    • Eiji (Castro), Izakaya Roku (Upper Market) and Kappou Gomi (Richmond) are good izakayas (small dishes)
    • Ramen Yamadaya (Pac Heights/Japantown) or Ken Ken (Mission) for ramen
    • Maruya (Mission) for high end Japanese
    Mediterranean/Middle Eastern
    • Kokkari (FiDi)
    • Zare at Fly Trap (SoMa)
    • Aziza (Richmond)
    • Saha (Tenderloin)
    Italian
    • Beretta (Mission)
    • A16 (Marina) and SPQR (Pac Heights)
    • Flour + Water (Mission)
    • Zero Zero (SoMa)
    Mexican
    Like the Asian food, there are a handful of fancy Mexican places and then the really really good $7 meal holes in the Mission. El Castillito is my go-to burrito place on Church (Upper Market, Mission). Ones below are sit down spots.
    • La Urbana (Western Addition) - a new trendy Mexican fusion place with interesting cocktails
    • Tacolicious (3 locations - Mission, Marina, North Beach)
    • Mamacita (Marina)
    Other Cuisines
    • Limon Rotissarie (Mission) - I'm partial to the Limon on Valencia/16th, though there's Van Ness too. Great Latin but definitely get their chicken
    • Beso (Castro) - Spanish/tapas
    • Locanda (Mission) - Californian, great cockails
    Someone else's expense account
    • Benu (SoMa) - really innovative New American. If you want to be aggressive, the 18-course tasting menu is worth the arm and leg.
    • Maruya (Mission) - Japanese
    • Saison (SoMa) - New American
    • Gary Danko (North Beach) - New American
    • Hakkasan (SoMa) - Chinese
    • Campton Place (Civic Center/Union Sq) - really fancy Indian fusion in the Taj Hotel, the food is beautiful and the service is out of this world (or at least this country, is it truly exceptional).
    Near Union Square
    Most of the big hotels are in and around Union Square. Here are some options within walking distance.
    • Lunch - Kin Khao (Thai) in Parc 55 hotel
    • Small dinners - Aveline (Modern/New American) is my new favorite, in the Warwick Hotel, great cocktails (though Top Chef Casey Thompsen just left...), Millenium (veg), Lers Roi Thai (Thai), Sakana (Japanese)
    • Work/group dinners - Bluestem Brasserie (New American), Amber India (Indian), Morton's (steak), Tropisueno (Mexican)
    • Expense account - Campton Place (fusion Indian), Farallon (seafood), Hakkasan (Cantonese)
    • Bars - Hopwater Distribution (beer), Burritt Room (cocktails), Press Club (wine bar), Bourbon & Branch (cocktails, but for smaller group/reservation), Mikkeller Bar (gastropub), Golden Gate Tap Room (sports bar), Rickhouse (cocktail/whiskey)
    Near Moscone
    Here are a few lunch spots near Moscone if you want something besides conference food...
    • Tin Vietnamese Cuisine is on Howard between 5th and 6th, good pho and other Vietnamese dishes, pretty fast for lunch
    • Samovar Tea Lounge is in Yerba Buena, great healthy tea sets and a la carte dishes
    • Spice Kit is a little further down Howard at 1st. I call it the Asian Chipotle - fast food, made to order bowls and wraps but with pork belly and fried lotus root chips. My favorite is the ssam wrap with Korean short rib and kimchi rice in a rice paper wrap (like a massive spring roll).
    For Views
    • La Mar (FiDi) - Peruvian and seafood, on Embarcadero
    • Cliff House (Seacliff) - seafood/American place on the western cliffs over the Pacific by Sutro Baths and Lands End
    • Greens (Marina) - vegetarian dining with beautiful views of the Marina and Golden Gate Bridge
    Veggie Friendly
    • Greens (Marina) 
    • Samovar Tea Lounge (3 locations - Yerba Buena, Hayes Valley, Castro) - one of my favorites when I just want to feel good after a meal. Great teas and tea sets, veggie friendly though their smoked salmon is amazing.
    • Gracias Madre (Mission) - vegan Mexican
    • Saha (Civic Center) - Arabic fusion food and it's not purely vegetarian but they have a great veggie dishes and a three course veggie prix fixe for $35 that is delicious and filling
    • Millenium - sadly the Civic Center location closed and moved to Oakland, would is worth the trip to a every innovative and delicious vegan restaurant for business travelers who are sick of heavy American food
    • See this great GitHub list of SF vegetarian restaurants
    Brunch
    • Mission Beach Cafe (Mission) - best ever. Go at 8:45AM to put your name down so you are in the first seating when it opens at 9AM. Otherwise it can be anywhere from 30-90 minute wait. Four Barrel Coffee is two blocks away for coffee drinkers
    • Foreign Cinema (Mission) - like Mission Beach Cafe, go early to sit or make a reservation, lovely brunch or other meals
    • Plow (Potrero Hill) - another place with a line, but delicious brunch. I'm obsessed with their potatoes.
    Ice Cream
    SFers also are religious about their ice cream. I am less so, and there are better lists but here are some places to try
    • Bi-Rite (Mission) - kitty corner from the NE corner of Dolores Park. Salted caramel, yum! There's a line for the cones that wraps around the block, but cut to the front to get soft serve or go for a pint, you'll eat it!
    • Mitchell's (Bernal Heights)
    • Humphrey Slocombe (Mission)
    • Smitten (Hayes Valley) - made to order liquid-nitrogen formed ice cream that is actually delicious (and founded by my classmate :) 
    Beer
    Craft microbrews are hipster cool and the state must consume like 80% of the beer industry's hops. We like our beers hoppy and you'll see India Pale Ales and Double IPAs dominate taps in the city.
    • Toronado (Lower Haight)
    • Monk's Kettle (Mission)
    • Hopwater Distribution (Civic Center)
    • Southern Pacific Brew (Mission)
    • Mikkeller Bar (Civic Center)
    • 21st Amendment (SoMa)
    Here is also a handy SF beer map and pub crawl recommendation.

    Cocktails
    Great "mixology" programs across the city, here are some of my favorites.
    • Bourbon & Branch (Civic Center) - this is THE cocktail bar in SF. It's a "speakeasy" so you need a password to get in the door. Recommend getting a reservation online, or if you want to just check it out, say "books" to get in the library, though it can get packed
    • Burritt Room (Civic Center)
    • Rickhouse (Civic Center)
    • Alembic (Upper Haight)
    • Trick Dog (Mission)
    • Armory Bar (Mission) - a little risque for work engagements, as it's related to the Armory across the street, home to Kink.com. But the bar is a great lounge with fantastic mixed drinks and subtle reference to its namesake in the artwork on the wall.
    Here's my Yelp cocktail list.

    You may notice "Wine" is missing as a category. I haven't found wine bars that I love, and any decent restaurant or bar in SF has good wine. If you can get out of the city for half a day, go to the source - here's the Napa and Sonoma post.

    Etc.
    Off the Grid is a fun way to experience the SF food scene - the food truck festival happens weekly and you can usually locate the individual trucks on Twitter

    #fatkidsaturday - if you have a Saturday afternoon to eat and drink your way through a neighborhood, try this out. We've only done it for Haight-Ashbury so far, but hope to add more!

    All of my Yelp reviews - http://aki-eats.yelp.com

    Favorite global restaurant list on Pinterest - http://www.pinterest.com/akiwee/favorite-restaurants/

    More on visit recommendations for San Francisco and the Bay Area

    Tuesday, October 8, 2013

    Brazil

    Here are some notes from a lovely week in Brazil in August 2013. I spent four days in Angra Dos Reis, a beach town about two hours drive from Rio, and then five days in Rio, enjoying "being a local" while I stayed at friends' apartment in Leblon and hung out with friends for their wedding celebration.

    This is a short addendum to the Rio de Janeiro blog post from a family vacation in September 2008, which has much more touristy details.

    Here are highlights
    * Angra Dos Reis - lovely small beach town with windy ocean side roads that connect little villages
    * Pousada Jamanta - wonderful hotel away near Angra Dos Reis, and they run their own dive shop!
    * Great restaurants

    Angra Dos Reis
    Pousada Jamanta - Diana speaks English and Spanish, and we corresponded with her via email to arrange all of the details of our stay, including the scuba diving and the driver (atendimento@pousadajamanta.com.br).
    +55 24 33651374
    www.pousadajamanta.com.br

    Awesome driver - Rodrigo Rezende
    +55 21 67403804
    +55 21 77030061
    rodrigotransfer@hotmail.com